The Forests of Mount Rainier National Park — Key Ideas to Explore
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Produced by Greg Bergquist and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
The punctuation and spelling from the original text have been faithfully preserved.
FORESTS OF MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY 1916
For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. Price, 20 cents.
PUBLICATIONS ON MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK SOLD BY THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS.
Remittances for these publications should be by money order, payable to the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., or in cash. Checks and postage stamps can not be accepted.
Features of the Flora of Mount Rainier National Park, by J.B. Flett. 1916. 48 pages, including 40 illustrations. 25 cents.
Contains descriptions of the flowering trees and shrubs in the park.
Mount Rainier and Its Glaciers, by F.E. Matthes. 1914. 48 pages, including 26 illustrations. 15 cents.
Contains a general account of the glaciers of Mount Rainier and of the development of the valleys and basins surrounding the peak.
Panoramic view of Mount Rainier National Park, 20 by 19 inches, scale 1 mile to the inch. 25 cents.
THE FORESTS OF MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.
By G.F. ALLEN, _United States Forest Service_.
The remarkable development of the forests about the base of Mount Rainier results from climatic conditions peculiarly favorable to tree growth. The winters are mild and short. The ocean winds that pass through the gaps of the Coast Range are laden with moisture which falls in the form of rain or snow on the west slope of the Cascades. The trees are nourished by this moisture through a long season of annual growth, and form an evergreen forest which is, in some respects, the most remarkable in the world. This forest, distinguished by the extraordinary size and beauty of the trees and by the density of the stand, extends into the deep valleys of the rivers which have their sources in the glaciers. On the dividing ridges and in the upper stream basins the composition and character of the forest change with the increasing severity of the climate.
The distribution of the different species of trees according to the intervals of altitude at which they occur separate the forests of the Mount Rainier National Park into different types. The lines of separation are to some extent also determined by complex conditions of slope, exposure, and moisture. The successive forest belts are uniform in the composition of their central areas, but blend and overlap where they come together.
The low valleys of the main and west forks of White River, of the Carbon, the Mowich, the Nisqually, and the Ohanopecosh are covered with a dense and somber forest of fir, hemlock, and cedar. The trees, pushing upward for light, are very tall and free from limbs for more than half their height. Their tops form a continuous cover which the sunshine rarely penetrates, and on which the light snows of early winter fall and melt, without reaching the ground. Even in midsummer the light is soft and shaded, and the air cool and humid. In the wintertime the young growth is sheltered from wind and the severity of the cold is tempered by the protecting mountain ranges. Saved from fire by the uniform dampness of the air the trees grow until they decay and fall from old age. They are succeeded by the suppressed younger trees. The forest remains mature, not uniformly sound and vigorous, yet not decreasing as a whole in size and volume. Individuals perish, but the character of the forest is constant. The deep alluvial soil covered with moss and decayed vegetation nourishes a luxuriant tangled undergrowth of vine maple, willow, and devil's-club. The forest floor is covered with a deep layer of decayed vegetation and is encumbered with fallen and mossy logs and upturned stumps. The explorer who leaves the trails must be a strong and active man if he can carry his pack 6 or 8 miles in a long summer day.
Ascending from the river bottoms to the lower slopes of the dividing ridges the forest becomes more open and the trees are smaller. Salal, Oregon grape, and huckleberry bushes take the place of the taller undergrowth of the valleys. Up to 3,000 feet the Douglas fir and the hemlock still are the dominant species. Above this altitude new species are found intermingled with the trees typical of the lowland, but forming a distinct forest type. The noble and amabilis fir appear, sometimes growing in pure stands, but more often associated with the Douglas fir and western hemlock at the lower limits of the type, and with alpine fir and mountain hemlock at the upper limit.
G.F. Allen's 1916 report organizes the forests of Mount Rainier National Park into distinct belts determined primarily by altitude. The text moves methodically from the dense, somber lowland valleys—where fir, hemlock, and cedar push upward for light—to the sparse, wind-swept slopes above timberline. This vertical progression is the work's central structural device, and Allen reinforces it with recurring attention to moisture, slope exposure, and the gradual thinning of the forest as conditions become more severe.
Altitudinal Belts as Organizing Principle
Allen divides the forest into types based on elevation, noting that the lines of separation are also influenced by slope, exposure, and moisture. The low valleys of the White, Carbon, Mowich, Nisqually, and Ohanopecosh Rivers are covered with a dense forest of tall trees. As the text ascends, the composition changes: Engelmann spruce appears on northeastern and eastern slopes from 3,500 to 6,000 feet, while yellow cypress occurs up to 7,000 feet. The belts are uniform in their central areas but blend and overlap at their edges, a pattern Allen describes with precision.
Recurring Images of Moisture and Exposure
Throughout the excerpts, Allen ties tree distribution to moisture and exposure. The grand fir is a moisture-loving tree found in deep alluvial bottom lands. Engelmann spruce requires moist soil and prefers cool northern exposures, growing in sheltered basins and stream valleys, avoiding steep mountain sides. The yellow cypress ranges to high elevations. These details create a consistent vocabulary of habitat preferences, making the forest's arrangement feel both ecological and almost architectural.
Movement Between Dense and Open Stands
The text frequently contrasts dense, closed-canopy forests with open stands. In the low valleys, trees are very tall and crowded. Engelmann spruce, when standing apart, has thick lower branches extending to the ground, but in dense pure stands it grows straight and limb-free. The yellow cypress is pictured in a group on high slopes. This back-and-forth between crowded and solitary growth gives the narrative a rhythmic quality, as if the reader is moving through varied landscapes.
Attention to Tree Form and Vulnerability
Allen describes each species' shape and susceptibility to fire. The grand fir has a rounded pyramidal crown; in dense forests its trunk is clear for half its height, but in the open it carries branches nearly to the ground. Engelmann spruce is easily killed by fire, which blisters its thin bark. The yellow cypress is also vulnerable. These observations link form to environment, showing how the same species adapts differently depending on competition and exposure.
Readers will find that Allen's report rewards attention to the interplay of altitude, moisture, and tree form. The work's strength lies in its systematic yet vivid descriptions, which allow one to visualize the forest's vertical stratification. The excerpts do not reveal the full extent of the park's flora, but they establish a clear method for understanding how species are distributed across this volcanic landscape.
Reading that old survey of Rainier’s forests, I kept noticing how the author’s patient eye for altitude and moisture mirrored my own lingering over field notes. It felt like finding a familiar handwriting in someone else’s journal. That quiet method of description—not proving anything, just observing—reminded me of Trees of the Northern United States Their Study, Description and Determination — A Reader’s Guide, which sits on my shelf with the same unassuming tenderness toward bark and leaf.
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